If you must go, get the pecan pie :)
This chain of restaurants boasts an good back story, starting from a stand-alone grocers stall selling fresh fruit, homemade jams, olive oils and other charming condiments. New ownership, in the form of the restaurateur behind The Ivy, has propagated a simple concept into a number of chains across the country, including a dozen or so in London.
The ambience at Bills conforms to the image you might expect of a restaurant with such origins; an undeviating jumble of country-style paraphernalia, from raw and unpolished tables and chairs, to baskets, oddball tins and flower pots lining shelves, and dried chilli bouquets hanging from the ceiling. It seems formulaic considering how many of this exact restaurant there are.
The menu speaks of simple food and simple cooking, and so the quality and taste must shine. This is not the case for both of the mains we choose – two prawn and salmon skewers are laid on a pile of watercress with gritty black quinoa, mango, tomato and cucumber – an entirely underwhelming offering with minimal input of flavour. The fish finger sandwich is unremarkable.
Dessert goes some way in making up for these misdemeanours; the warm pecan pie is nutty, gooey and delicious, served with a smooth malted banana ice cream. Average price per person is £20.