Burgers in Soho
It is a surprise to learn that BRGR.co is originally Beiruti, and that the branch on Wardour Street is its first step into Europe. You won’t find any Arabian embellishments on the menu or the décor which boasts exposed brickwork and stuffed and hung cow heads draped with fuchsia feather boas – saucy. With a no bookings policy we are lucky to nab a table on a Sunday afternoon, and get on to the important task of eating.
The menu is short and nothing immediately screams of originality, but in a city obsessed with the union between patties and buns, this may not be an issue. The 4 oz original burger is a blend of different cuts best served medium well to well, and favoured by our table as very few of us are into blood stained buns. The burgers are succulent but lack any distinctive features or flavours, while the sweet brioche bun absorbs the juices very well without deteriorating. Salad is served on the side to put in the burgers, and there is a choice of different cheeses (mature cheddar, gruyère, provolone, danish blue) and sauces (black pepper, mushroom, devil, and hunter) which make it is possible to experiment (very slightly). The Caesar salad starter, upgraded to a main on request, is crisp, fresh and mercifully not doused in excess sauce.
Sides include skinny fries; either topped with a gungy looking cheese, or tossed in a bag with the hackneyed combination of truffle oil and grated parmesan. Onion rings are fried in a buttermilk batter which is on the thin side and served with a tedious aioli dip, but vastly improved by plunging them into the lively black pepper sauce. In fact, everything dunked into this saviour of a sauce becomes scrumptious. Service is patchy, average price per person is £20.
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