Loud, trendy…average food


‘If it didn’t moo, don’t sit on it’. This, surely, is the philosophy at Gaucho, where a horde of cow skins have been parted from their flesh to clad chairs and walls. Every other discernible surface is a sulky shade of black, dimly lit with wag-chic white chandeliers. The darkness is compounded by windows that are boarded up with black slats, resulting in a space that is obstinately blogger unfriendly.

The meat is Argentinian, and before its timely demise, can be found grazing peaceably along the flat plains of the fertile Pambas. A less joyous existence awaits in London; raw rump, sirloin, fillet, rib-eye, and a marinated spiral cut of Churrasco de Cuadril are brought out on a hefty slab of wood by an enthused waiter who points out their merits.

After our fervent educator feels he has imparted enough knowledge for us to make a decent choice of steak, a selection of bread, butter and cheese help to peruse the rest of the menu. In keeping with the South American premise, a starter of tuna ceviche is chosen, marinated in a citrus dressing and perfectly acceptable.

The steaks are cooked in the customary Argentinian way – turned only once on the grill and salted on only one side. Ours is ordered medium rare and arrives just so, with a side of finely julienned potatoes, braised in milk and then fried. Both the béarnaise sauce and steak knife arrive unashamedly late, with only a few inches of meat left to eat. On arrival, the steak knife is blunt and the sauce unexceptional. Lamb cutlets are thick, tender, welcome wedges, arranged on a dollop of crushed aubergine puree and finished with a dusky salsa of sun-dried tomato, black olive and pine nut.

A peach crumble for dessert has the distinct whiff of shop bought biscuit, but is otherwise quite tasty. Nothing ground-breaking to report, but if you have the carnal urge to chew on a cow in low light around twelve different locations in London, then voila. Service is slow, average price per person is £45.

Tube: Piccadilly Circus

Bread, butter, cheese at gaucho
Bread, butter, cheese
Tuna ceviche at gaucho
Tuna ceviche
Lamb chops, aubergine puree at gaucho
Lamb chops, aubergine puree
Potato side at gaucho
Potato side
Peach crumble at gaucho
Peach crumble

Gaucho - Piccadilly on Urbanspoon

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  1. Pingback: The Meat Co. | Wrap Your Lips Around This

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