A Holborn ‘Brit’ brasserie
A self-titled Grand Brasserie, Holborn Dining Room is located in the Grade II-listed Rosewood London hotel, and serves British comfort food in an arena that can easily accommodate 200. Plump leather banquettes sigh contentedly when sat on and, despite the vast proportions, tables are arranged in clusters that feel friendly and intimate.
The menu reads confidently enough and I’d recommend you start with half a dozen prawns griddled in butter and fragrant herb, or a delicate lobster thermidor tart that threatens to spill its creamed innards out of a light pastry casing.
Furled fillets of John Dory with shrimp butter make for a pleasantly diverting main, whilst a 50 day aged Dexter sirloin divides opinion. Although it is technically well cooked it has a certain pong that I can’t quite stomach, which seems to follow me home long after a bread and butter pudding has been devoured.
Holborn Dining Room provides the perfect foil for head chef Calum Franklin and owner Des McDonald, executive of the Caprice Group, to showcase British favourites to a willing, if captive, working audience. It’s better than just that though and, along with the weekly market launching on 1st March in the hotel’s courtyard, it pulls off the seemingly impossible. Holborn is now a slightly more desirable location because of the ministrations of Holborn Dining Room and The Rosewood Hotel, and all the better for it.
Address: Rosewood London, High Holborn, WC1V 7EN
Tel: 020 3747 8633
I was invited to review