Heartwarming fine dining
La Trompette sits effortlessly in tranquil Chiswick; elegant grey awnings and etched glass spill onto Devonshire Road and its interior swells with flourishes of conversation from a rather dapper local clientele. This Michelin starred restaurant has undergone a double pronged refurbishment of both its dining room and kitchen; the former extended to include two new dining areas, and the latter now headed by Rob Weston, former head chef at The Square – as such we expect great things.
On being seated a choice of breads is offered – white, brown or walnut with raisin, all freshly baked on the premises each day. Although the conventional a la carte dinner menu is omitted in favour of an imposed three course set menu, there is nothing regimental about the calibre and variety of offerings. Both the starters and mains exude luxury; a parfait of foie gras is diaphanous in texture, smeared thickly on toasted bread with a French bean, peach and hazelnut salad, whilst the venison is served as tartare and rare roasted slices with baked celeriac, beetroot, radishes and pickled walnuts.
The concept of serving meat two ways is mirrored in the beef main; slow roast short rib has a chewy-charred exterior covering fat-moistened flesh, next to which are crimson slices of ribeye, soaked in a deep marrow sauce with field mushrooms and blackened shallots. A fillet of seabass is proficiently cooked and presented with al dente farfalle, onions, cepes and a light broth of roasting chicken juices.
Graduating to dessert, the burnt vanilla cream with nectarines is interesting but is not destined to set our world on fire. The Damson soufflé with almond and bayleaf ice-cream works harder at pleasing but does not excel, yet we end our meal in the knowledge that the dishes are executed by an accomplished hand, producing neighborhood fine dining with aplomb.
With the arrival of the bill comes the sweetest au revoir – a pile of cocoa feathered truffles with silky hearts of dark chocolate ganache. We are spoilt and well fed to the very last moment, and leave with hearts and stomachs satiated. Service is informal yet impeccable, average price per person is £60.
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