Trendy Fulham has a new-ish Japanese restaurant that looks properly the business and might rival Roka for style. It’s all dark wood and vintage glass, clever lighting and cream, feathered design touches. It’s both gorgeous and understated, and really very elegant.

Aqua Kyoto

Spring lamb chops, charred and glossy on the outside and rosy as a sunrise on the inside, are served on a tomato miso reduction with blackened courgette and pickled Japanese rose.


Kouzu boasts a collection of some of the most experienced chefs and front of house staff. The all-Japanese entourage includes Kyoichi Kai of Zuma & Kyubi of The Arts Club.


Dozos black cod is marinated in saikyomiso for a period not shorter than 24hours, and then grilled. The result; an unbelievably soft fillet, its skin glazed in the miso and blackened with flame.

Flesh and Buns

A little playground humour is always appreciated, and so the explicitly named Flesh and Buns has a certain titillating appeal that I more than appreciate.


The words ‘Without Soy Sauce – but if you want to’ are emblazoned in neon on the restaurant wall, and underline the twist to Yashin sushi bar in Kensington.