Smokehouse Comes To Chiswick

Smokehouse Comes To Chiswick

Caramel roast potatoes, Smokehouse, Chiswick, Neil Rankin, BBQ, London

Rankin does Chiswick, at last

I am determined to like Neil Rankin’s latest restaurant before I even arrive. Chiswick is short of restaurants, and I’m a local. I’m unwaveringly happy all day leading up to dinner, and have bored my dining partner half to death with talk of egg-topped apple pies. For a devout Pescatarian he is surprisingly supportive of my decision to clean Smokehouse out of all of its meat and, although he’s utterly the most likeable person, my God is he missing out.

IMG_0696

The best part of Smokehouse is in a shed outside, from whence emanates a persistent aroma of meat, coming into its twelfth hour of roasting. A mighty ‘Ole Hickory Pit Smoker’ and Robata grill process the lions share of the menu, including a lamb shoulder slow cooked into exhausted submission, the suction of wet polenta and the brutal heat of sambal providing the only resistance to spooning it up like some sort of crazed animal. 

IMG_0804

Smoked lamb shoulder, polenta, sambal, raclette, Smokehouse, Chiswick, Neil Rankin, BBQ, London

Leeks and slivered Portobello mushrooms form the foundations of the next dish, blackened, furled and suffocated in a pleasing excess of parmesan, and bound together with an egg and truffle oil. For my partner, a coal-baked fillet of salmon with an apple, fennel, radish and red onion salad.

The flaked Cornish crab on sourdough toast and the seared foie gras with apple pie and egg are both reminiscent of dishes at the original Islington Smokehouse, although I remember them as being better – the crab layer plumper and more generous, and the egg yolk served alone in a perfect little pouch, instead of fried on the side. It is early days however, and the difference does not markedly detract from the experience.

Burnt leeks, Portobello, truffle oil, parmesan, egg, Smokehouse, Chiswick, Neil Rankin, BBQ, London

Foie gras, apple pie, egg, Smokehouse, Chiswick, Neil Rankin, BBQ, London

Caramel roast potatoes sound fabulous, but a measure of restraint would be better served in this instance; the food is rich enough as is. The spuds start off well – boiled so that they are fluffy first, then mercilessly roasted to form a hard exterior, and later crusted with a thin layer of solid caramel that cracks in the best way. They soon turn too sweet however, especially when eaten with the likes of fatty meats, yolks, cheese, truffle oil, bone marrow and the rest. Grilled Romaine lettuce and kale – that’s what you should order.

Smokehouse is classy enough for Chiswick and the £45pp which is, strictly speaking, just a little excessive for a gastro pub, probably won’t put anyone off. The food is great and the staff are lovely, and as a local I’m pleased it’s here. Currently still in its soft opening (50% off), Smokehouse will be fully open from 6th April.

Tube: Chiswick Park
Address: 12 Sutton Lane North, Chiswick, London W4 4LD
Tel: 020 3819 6066
Website: Details on the Islington site – www.smokehouseislington.co.uk

Click to add a blog post for Smokehouse on Zomato

17 Comments

  • 9 years ago

    Love the look of that tart! And do love the sound of caramel roasties – but does sound like a little Rennie action may be needed ;-)

    • Mehreen A
      9 years ago

      I’ve made another booking and will definitely be sticking to the greens ;)

  • SO excited we’ve got a good new restaurant in Chiswick!! Can’t wait to check it out. If you’re local, do have a look at my pop up supper clubs – they’re based just near Chiswick roundabout http://grubclub.com/a-little-lusciousness/a-little-lusciousness-a-little-lusciousness/2251

    Rosie xx

    • Mehreen A
      9 years ago

      Thanks for sending me a link to the supper club, never been to one before so may have to check it out at some point :)

  • 9 years ago

    What gorgeous pictures and seductively evocative descriptions.
    Lots of love,
    Angie

    • Mehreen A
      9 years ago

      Lol thanks Angie ;)

  • Tahira
    9 years ago

    Stunning pictures! I’ll definitely have to check the Islington branch out at some point! Such an enabler…

    Tahira | http://ramblingsofafoodaddict.com/

    • Mehreen A
      9 years ago

      And proud ;)

      • Tahira
        9 years ago

        Totally wish i could have ‘liked’ that comment ;)

        • Mehreen A
          9 years ago

          Haha that would be cool – maybe there’s a plugin for that..

  • 9 years ago

    The food looks really delicious! I am working in a moving company in Chiswick and we were searching for nice place with my colleagues to go for delicious dinner. I think that this place looks amazing and I will send this article to my colleagues. Regards!

    • Mehreen A
      9 years ago

      It’s really great, hope you guys enjoy it xxx

  • 9 years ago

    Hi Mehreen!
    The place looks great! I work close by the Smokehouse and many times I’ve been thinking to have a dinner there with my fiance. Thank you for the lovely review! :)

    • Mehreen A
      9 years ago

      Anytime, and I hope you enjoy your meal there x

  • 9 years ago

    I went here last summer when this was still the Hole in the Wall Gastropub. Stopped in twice over the last week, once for dinner, once for drinks.Let’s talk about food. The food was excellent. We had goat tacos and burned leeks for starters. Perfect sizes for appetizers. Main course was lamb, which I normally do not care for. This was excellent.
    Let’s not forget the bar. Whiskey aplenty in this place. But not only that, but several craft ales and lagars, bottle and draught. Something for everyone here. The staff are great, too. Very helpful.

    • Mehreen A
      9 years ago

      I’m glad you had a good time x

Leave a Comment

Leave A Comment Your email address will not be published

Editors' picks