The credit for the rise of the no-reservation, sharing-plate, shabby-chic contingent of restaurants must go to Russell Norman, also a pioneer in the concept of Italian tapas.

10 Greek Street

The menu is just one page long which includes a series of ‘small plates’, mains and desserts, and changes regularly, serving charming dishes to lucky Soho regulars.

Bocca Di Lupo

Dessert at Bocca Di Lupo in Soho is the rather naughty le palle del nonno, translated as ‘grandpa’s balls’, composed of deep-fried ricotta with specks of chocolate.