Zumbura


An unconventional Indian restaurant in Clapham

One of the first things you’ll notice when walking into Zumbura is how non traditional it looks. For an Indian restaurant, there isn’t much that gives it away as such if you haven’t already seen a menu.

There are no over embellished flourishes or harem-inspired murals of any kind anywhere, replaced instead with replica Eames chairs, teal paint, copper and brickwork and a long bar made from a lateral slice of a real oak tree. It’s deliciously assembled, and no wonder: the creators of Zumbura, Aamir Ahmad, Sean Galligan and David Garrett, are also the guys behind furniture store Dwell.

The food at Zumbura is described as being from the Purab region of North East India (no idea), and is not unlike some of your typical Punjabi food. Some dishes are conspicuously left out of the menu – no vindaloos, butter chickens, kormas or paneers. I quite like that Zumbura isn’t like your usual high street curry house, and if you can bear being away from your favourites then do come and try Aloo Tikkia, soft potato patties brimming with herb and spice, or coriander and yoghurt marinated chicken, left to do it’s thing overnight before being given a mean seeing to in the oven. Both these and the lamb chops know what they’re about, rubbed in a litany of herbs and then given enough heat to make their edges curl and blacken. Oh, sweet grill.

Curries include the familiar, like Kofte (beef meatballs), and Keema Muttar (beef mince and peas), and less traditional, like Anda Salan (boiled egg curry). At home, boiled eggs are halved and added to the Kofte curry for more formal family gatherings where someones mum naturally wants to dot the i’s and cross the t’s for her in-laws. They work moderately well on their own, although traditionalists will miss the meat.

The portions at Zumbura are very precise: curries have exactly four pieces of the protein and no more, starters have three, the grills have the same. Described as being ‘sharing food’, it would get a little awkward to split between more than two people, assuming that you all want more than a morsel of each curry.

Zumbura is great for dates to order a few different things and get stuck in, although the formula of ‘sharing’ may leave you with a bill around £40 a head.

Tube: Clapham Common
Address: 36a Old Town, London SW4 0LB
Tel: 020 7720 7902
Website: www.zumbura.com

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7 Comments

  • How much was the sooji? Would be interesting to know as its dirt cheap – semolina and butter is all. Plus it doesnt look like they put in extras like almonds and currants. Usually Indian restaurants dont offer that kind of halwa as no one who knows how its made would buy it -it would be laughed off the menu. Sikh gurwaras give handfuls of it to everyone who goes every single day for free. I would expect that, given the location, portion sizes and presence of sooji, that not many actual Indians/pakistanis eat at Zumbura.

    • It’s interesting that you should say that, my mum’s always taking the piss out of me for ordering Sooji. It’s one of my favourite things to eat, and I haven’t learnt how to make it so I always tend to order it if available at restaurants.The sooji halwa was £3 here, which isn’t a huge amount in the grand scheme of things, but I see your point.

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