Here’s what to order at Sushi Atelier in Fitzrovia

Sushi Atelier has been on my list for years. Every time someone asks where to find good sushi in London, Sushi Atelier pops up in. Reddit loves it. London food people love it. Trusted foodie friends keep mentioning it.

The problem is that I’ve been burned before.

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London has an unfortunate talent for charging astonishing amounts of money for sushi that ranges from merely decent to actively disappointing. So over time, I’ve become cautious – suspicious, even.

And yet, on a Friday lunchtime, I finally find myself perched at the counter at Sushi Atelier London, staring at a menu full of nigiri topped with things like truffle butter, pickled wasabi and lumpfish caviar.

By the end of lunch, I am completely converted.

Not only is this one of the best sushi meals I’ve had in London this year, it might also be the restaurant that restores my faith in London sushi altogether.

Quick info on Sushi Atelier

• Restaurant: Sushi Atelier
• Location: Fitzrovia
• Must order: Butterfish nigiri, scallop nigiri, medium fatty tuna
• Skip: Truffle black cod nigiri (only because there are better options)
• Price paid: £83
• Would I return? Immediately

Find out more in the full Sushi Atelier review below. 

The Sushi Atelier menu rewards curiosity

One thing becomes obvious very quickly when looking through the Sushi Atelier menu.

This isn’t a restaurant that relies solely on expensive fish and calls it a day.

Instead, almost every piece of nigiri arrives with a carefully considered topping, seasoning or accompaniment. Lemon zest. Pickled wasabi. Chilli oil. Caviar. Truffle butter.

When the waiter asks whether I’d like the nigiri served with the chef’s recommended toppings, I briefly consider saying no. Thankfully, common sense prevails. Always say yes.

This is not one of those restaurants where toppings are decorative. They’re fundamental to the experience. Time and time again, they’re what transforms a very good piece of fish into something memorable.

In fact, if I made one mistake during lunch, it was ordering two sushi rolls.

The rolls are excellent. But Sushi Atelier’s real superpower lies in single morsels of perfectly curated nigiri. Each piece arrives as its own little adventure, and the wider you order, the more rewarding the meal becomes.

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Every nigiri seems better than the last

We try the seabream nigiri first, topped with tomato and cucumber salsa.

It’s a gentle beginning. Seabream can sometimes be so delicate that it borders on forgettable, but here the freshness of the salsa helps tease out the sweetness of the fish without overwhelming it. The seasoning is immaculate and everything feels balanced.

It’s a lovely start.

Then comes the yellowtail. Bright lemon zest lands first, followed by the cool richness of the fish itself. Only after the yellowtail has melted away does a gentle warmth from the sesame chilli oil begin to emerge.

Again, it’s a flavour combo that is beautifully judged.

And then the butterfish arrives – now we’re in trouble. Seared with truffle butter, it’s one of those bites that makes you stop talking halfway through chewing. The fish is astonishingly juicy. A light char from the sear gives depth and smokiness, while the truffle butter somehow amplifies everything without becoming overpowering.

I’ve eaten a lot of sushi in London- this might be the single best piece of nigiri I’ve had all year.

Next we try the medium fatty tuna with pickled wasabi. The pairing borders on a genius touch, being both sharp and bright, it cuts through the richness and gives the nigiri a lovely structure.

Without it, the tuna might feel overly round and buttery. With it, it’s magnificent.

By this point, I’m ordering despite being full

The scallop nigiri arrives topped with lumpfish caviar. First comes the salty pop of the caviar, then the scallop, which is sweet, impossibly tender, almost creamy.

The rice underneath is perfect, while a gentle background heat appears a few seconds later, lingering around the lips like a pleasant reminder of what you’ve just eaten.

It’s one of those Sushi Atelier bites that evolves as you eat it. And naturally, it makes me want another.

The tiger prawn nigiri heads in the opposite direction. Where the scallop dissolves, the prawn demands chewing. Seared with garlic butter and chives, it’s meaty, substantial and deeply satisfying. If you love prawns, you’ll adore it.

The Sushi Atelier special that’s been flirting with me all lunch

The Sushi Atelier specials menu sits behind the counter, and one item has been winking at me ever since I sat down.

Truffle black cod nigiri.

The problem is that by this point I’m already full – but curiosity wins, and so another nigiri appears.

It’s lovely. The black cod has that signature almost-caramelised richness that made the fish famous in the first place. The texture is soft and luxurious. The flavour is mellow and comforting.

But, at £9 per piece (nearly double many of the other nigiri) I’d probably skip it next time. It’s not bad, it’s just that everything else we’ve tried is better. 

Even the sushi rolls are excellent

By now I’ve learned that Sushi Atelier’s nigiri is where the real magic happens.

Still, the rolls deserve some attention. The classic yellowtail roll arrives with shiso plum and spring onion, and it’s gorgeous.

The yellowtail is soft and clean tasting, while the plum introduces a subtle fruitiness that lifts everything. Sesame scattered across the top adds warmth and a gentle roasted note.

Meanwhile, the spicy scallop roll brings a completely different experience. The first thing you notice is the crunch of popped rice, then comes silky scallop and creamy rice.

Both are excellent.

But if you’re deciding between another roll or another round of nigiri, I’d choose the nigiri every single time.

My only complaint about sushi atelier

One of the reasons you book a counter seat at a sushi restaurant is because you want the theatre.

To watch the fish being sliced, the rice being shaped, marvelling at the fact that someone can turn a handful of ingredients into something so precise and beautiful.

Which is why the setup at Sushi Atelier London feels so oddly frustrating.

The restaurant revolves around a long sushi counter, and behind it the chefs are clearly hard at work. Throughout lunch I can hear knives moving across chopping boards and blowtorches hissing into life. Every so often there’s a flash of flame or a glimpse of someone’s hands moving with impressive speed and precision.

And yet, between diners and chefs sits a high glass display shelf filled with ingredients.

Now, I understand why it’s there. Practically speaking, it probably makes perfect sense.

But as a diner, it feels like sitting in the front row of a concert while someone holds a sign up directly in front of your face.

The sounds of the performance are all there – you know something impressive is happening mere feet away from you. You just can’t properly see it.

It’s a small complaint, particularly because the food is so exceptional. But I found myself repeatedly trying to peer around jars, bottles and containers, desperate to catch more of the action.

Perhaps that’s ultimately a compliment – the food coming across the counter is so good that it makes you want to watch the people creating it.

Sushi Atelier restored my faith In London sushi

By the time the bill arrives, I’m bracing myself. Given what I’ve eaten, I’m expecting three figures.

Instead it’s £83.

Which, don’t get me wrong, isn’t cheap for lunch.

But considering the quality of the fish, the skill of the kitchen, the creativity of the flavour combinations and the sheer amount of food I’ve managed to consume, it feels remarkably fair.

And perhaps that’s the biggest compliment I can give Sushi Atelier London.

I leave feeling excited about sushi again. Somewhere along the way, I’d become slightly sceptical of London’s sushi scene. Too many meals had been expensive without being memorable.

Sushi Atelier changes that, because almost every single bite is thoughtful, delicious and worth ordering.

Next time, I’d happily hand myself over to the omakase and trust the kitchen completely. That’s not something I say lightly.

In fact, I don’t usually write reviews this glowing at all. But here we are.

If you love sushi, get yourself to Sushi Atelier. It’s magnificent.

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Address – 114 Great Portland St, London W1W 6PH
Nearest Tube – Piccadilly Circus