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The first taste is the best – it’s of buttery pastry and moody mushroom, and a heart of delicate, juicy beef fillet.
Spring lamb chops, charred and glossy on the outside and rosy as a sunrise on the inside, are served on a tomato miso reduction with blackened courgette and pickled Japanese rose.
The soaring atriums are furnished in a clean biscuit-brown wood and with cosseting fireplaces and armchairs, and a pianist adds to the easy atmosphere.
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