We eat our way through the Onsu desserts to see if the hype is real

By the time I join the queue at Onsu Bakery in Soho, I’ve already seen the same cakes on my phone about fifty times.

You know the kind of place. Tiny Soho bakery with perfect little slices. People queueing down the street as if cake has never existed before this exact moment.

Which means there are really only two possibilities.

Either Onsu is one of those places designed to thrive on your phone and disappoint in your mouth, or the hype is doing that rare thing and pointing towards something genuinely good.

So we commit. No stopping by for one photogenic slice and pretending that counts as research. We order widely. Cakes, drinks, the lot.

Because what I really want to know isn’t whether Onsu can make one good dessert. It’s whether there’s actual range behind the pretty counter. Whether this is a one-hit bakery, or a place with real depth.

That, in the end, turns out to be the more interesting question.

Quick info on Onsu Bakery in Soho

• Bakery: Onsu
• Location: Soho
• Must order: chocolate pecan and banana cake, popcorn and miso caramel Paris Brest, minus 86 degree ube latte
• Skip: minus 86 degree signature tea
• Seating: decent amount, table service for drinks moves fast
• Tip: busy even on weekdays, but tables turn quickly

Find out more in our Onsu review below.

First impressions of Onsu bakery in Soho

The queue at Onsu moves briskly, which I appreciate.

As many people are grabbing takeaway boxes as there are people hunting for seats, so the whole room keeps turning over.

The result is you get your order faster than you think you will, and finding a table isn’t the battle you might expect from a hyped Soho opening.

Even better, the table service for drinks is surprisingly efficient. Your minus 86 degree drink arrives quickly, which is exactly how it should be –  because nothing kills a cake mood faster than staring at your fork while your latte takes a scenic route.

There’s more going on here than pretty cakes

Onsu is the solo venture of pastry chef Michael Kwan, who has worked everywhere from The Fat Duck to Laduree, Hakkasan, and The Dorchester.

The menu has the telltale precision of someone with serious pastry-kitchen experience. The textures are controlled, the finishes are polished, and even the playful ideas feel properly thought through.

And texture is exactly where Onsu shines.

Each dessert has its own tactile component, like the crackle from caramelised bases, the wobble from custardy cheesecakes, crisp choux, soft sponge, and whipped creams that melt on contact, plus the occasional cold shock of a minus 86 degree drink.

Read more
The Fluffiest Japanese Pancakes in London – Hefaure vs Fuwa Fuwa

Chocolate pecan and banana cake

This is the best dessert I eat at Onsu, and the slice I keep thinking about afterwards.

It’s multi-textured in the most satisfying way. First, there’s a crackly-nutty base, the kind that crunches like caramelised crumbs and roasted pecans. Then there’s a layer of banana cake that tastes incredibly banana-y, warm and mellow like ripe fruit.

And then on top, is the lightest whipped chocolate, airy like a cloud but still rich enough to feel decadent. It dissolves almost instantly, leaving that nutty crackle and banana softness behind.

Every bite changes slightly depending on where your fork lands, and that’s exactly why this Onsu dessert works so well. If you’re only ordering one cake at Onsu bakery in London, make it this.

Read more
The Best Food in Chinatown London According to TikTok

Lemon and kumquat cheesecake

This cake is a tactile dream.

It begins with a malty biscuit base that sits underneath a ring of wibbly cheesecake that feels like just-set custard, soft and creamy with a gentle wobble. On top is a citrus jelly shell that adds brightness and bounce, plus piped cream to soften the edges.

The kumquat note is what makes it interesting. It’s more rounded than just a simple citrus, and it stops the sweetness becoming flat. It’s refreshing without being sharp, and creamy without being heavy.

If you like desserts that feel light but still decadent, this one hits a sweet spot.

Read more
Where To Eat Jiggly Japanese Cheesecake In London

Popcorn and miso caramel Paris Brest

This is the pastry that proves Onsu is really thinking about its flavour profiles.

Because it would be easy to throw caramel popcorn on top of a Paris Brest and call it a day. Onsu doesn’t do that. Instead, the caramel popcorn flavour runs through everything, including the choux ring and creamy filling. It’s cohesive and intentional, like someone actually designed the flavour profile from the inside out.

Then the miso caramel steps in and makes it even better. There’s a salty, savoury depth, with just enough funk to make it different. 

This is bold, nostalgic, and clever all at once.

Read more
What to Order at Fred Bakery, Oxford Circus

Coconut and strawberry shortcake

This is the lightest, most summery cake that we try at Onsu Bakery. And it’s dangerously easy to finish.

Think soft sponge, cloud-like cream, and strawberries that burst with juice. The coconut twist is subtle but smart. It adds a gentle tropical note that lifts the whole thing and makes it feel slightly more interesting than a classic Japanese shortcake.

If you’re not in the mood for heavy richness, this is the best thing to order at Onsu Bakery.

Salted egg yolk mille feuille

The mille feuille is my least favourite patisserie at Onsu, but it’s not because it’s badly made. It’s more that the texture and flavour profile don’t excite me as much as the others.

The pastry layers remind me of the overhanging edge of a flaky pie crust, those bits that get a little too done and a little too dry at the corners. It’s very pastry-forward, and I personally prefer the more expressive flavours and softer textures of the other cakes.

If salted egg yolk is your thing, you may love this Onsu order. For me, it’s the one dessert I’d skip in favour of something more vibrant.

Minus 86 degree ube latte

I love this drink. I love it in a way that makes me slightly annoyed at myself for loving it, because yes, it’s a trend, yes it’s dramatic, yes it’s served in a glass that’s been frozen to minus 86 degrees, but also… it’s insanely good.

The latte tastes creamy and earthy, laced with the signature gentle sweetness of ube. The cold is intense, but in a satisfying way, like the drink has been sharpened and concentrated by the temperature. There’s also a slight saltiness that plays beautifully with the creamy richness, making it feel balanced rather than sugary.

The mouthfeel is the real joy though. It’s thick, velvety, and somehow aerated at the same time. It feels like drinking a very cold, very silky cloud.

Minus 86 degree signature milk tea

As much as I love the ube latte, I actively dislike the Onsu signature milk tea.

It tastes bitter, like over-brewed tea, and instead of the minus 86 temperature elevating it, it makes the mouthfeel worse. The tea freezes against the inside of the glass, creating icy shards that bob around when you stir. They don’t melt smoothly. They just float there, messing with every sip.

It’s a shame, because the ube latte shows the minus 86 degree treatment can be genuinely delicious when paired with the right flavour base.

So, is Onsu worth the hype?

Yes. Not because every item is perfect, but because Onsu gets the hard part right: texture, contrast, and enough variety that you can come back in different moods and have a completely different experience.

Some cakes are light and fruity, others are rich and crackly, others are creamy and wibbly, and the minus 86 ube latte is a brilliant drink.

Not everything will be everyone’s favourite, and that’s part of the fun. This is a bakery built around preference and texture rather than one single signature item.

If you want the quick version, here’s how I’d order:

• For richness: chocolate pecan and banana cake
• For cleverness: popcorn and miso caramel Paris Brest
• For freshness: lemon and kumquat cheesecake
• For lightness: coconut and strawberry shortcake
• For drinks: minus 86 ube latte

Start with the chocolate banana cake, add the ube latte, and take it from there.

Read more
20 Must Eats in London

Onsu bakery review
Address – 55A Dean St, London W1D 6AG
Nearest Tube – Tottenham Court Road