Afternoon tea at a Soho institution
Established in 1867 and created from four Georgian townhouses, Kettners has a certain old school charm about it. Its high walls and elegant sash windows create a spacious set of downstairs dining areas, whilst upstairs is partitioned into private dining rooms. Gunmetal-grey velvet upholstery, bronzed mirrors and delicate furnishings dress the interiors and provide a comfortable backdrop for a leisurely afternoon tea.
A muted tea menu offers the classic choices as well as a pretty flowering jasmine variety, where a single bud is immersed into hot water and slowly unfurls in front of you.
Traditional finger sandwiches include smoked salmon with cream cheese, cucumber and egg mayonnaise with cress on white and brown bread. The tier above this is laden with sweet treats including lemon meringue pie, coconut parfait with fruit salad, honeycomb cheesecake, berry jelly and raspberry mini macaron. Scones are more limited than either the cakes or sandwiches, with only sultana ones available. Still, they are some of the best I’ve had yet with a surprisingly light texture and a lingering just-baked warmth.
Afternoon tea at Kettner’s is one of the more affordable ones I’ve reviewed so far, and the enjoyment to cost ratio is good.
Tube: Leicester Square
Address: 29 Romilly Street, Soho, London W1D 5HP
Tel: 020 7734 6112
I was invited to review afternoon tea at Kettner’s