Why you need to try Breadstall Pizza in Soho

We’re in Soho on a freezing January afternoon, wandering past Berwick Street Market, half-looking for lunch and half-pretending not to have already made up our minds. Because honestly, ever since we heard about the quarter-slice pizzas at Breadstall Soho, we’ve been plotting our visit.

There’s a rumble of hype around Breadstall pizza lately, mostly centred on the fluff-factor of the sourdough crust and the handy quarter-portion slices. And since it’s rare to find really good pizza by the slice in London, we’re intrigued.

Also, lunch in Soho is always a good idea.

Quick info on Breadstall Pizza, Soho

• Restaurant: Breadstall
• Location: Soho, London
• Known for: sourdough pizza with a slow-fermented biga dough, sold in quarter, half or whole sizes
• Eat-in?: yes, there’s indoor seating at the Soho branch
• Best time to go: lunchtime or early evening. The menu changes regularly
• Must order: beef ragu and mushroom pizza, black garlic and truffle dip
• Price: around £7 for a quarter pizza

Read our Breadstall Soho restaurant review below to find out more.

What’s good on the Breadstall menu?

The quarter slice format is what drew us in to Breadstall in Soho. A quarter of pizza is a generous portion, far more than a standard ‘slice’ would be, and ideal for those who want to try more than one flavour.

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The beef ragu pizza is our winner

We order the beef ragu and mushroom pizza and it’s absolutely delicious. The crust is crisp-edged but airy, with that signature Breadstall pizza chew that sourdough lovers will appreciate.

The ragu is meaty and rich, and generously spread across the slice in satisfyingly rustic blobs. There are good-sized pieces of mushroom too, and we keep dipping bites into the black truffle mayo for a hit of indulgence. The mayo is rich, maybe a little heavy, but works beautifully in moderation.

The hot honey chicken pizza is a solid halal option

Our second choice is the chicken, stracciatella and hot honey pizza. It’s the halal option on the Breadstall menu, and it’s a good one.

It’s slightly sweet from the honey, nicely savoury from the chicken, and the cheese is creamy – though we do wish there was just a bit more of it. Still, it’s a very decent slice, and again, the base is brilliant. It’s the kind of crust that’s good enough to eat without toppings.

Can you eat in at Breadstall?

Yes, and that’s a game changer, especially in Soho where takeaway can mean juggling a box on a bench in the cold.

The Breadstall Soho location has lots of indoor seating, which is a nice upgrade from the Battersea stall where the concept began. You still order from the window (where all the pizzas are laid out for you to choose from), and they heat it up fresh in the oven.

It’s casual but well thought out. Order, grab a seat inside, and you’ll have piping hot pizza in hand in minutes.

Our verdict on Breadstall pizza in Soho

I’ve enjoyed trying the Breadstall pizza today, and it’s certainly one of the better ones in London. The quarter size is handy and makes for a full lunch, and it also means you could order four different quarters to try lots of the menu (and it would equal one whole pizza in total).

This sizing means you can build a lunch or dinner exactly how you want it, mixing and matching slices to get that variety. And with so many interesting pizzas on the Breadstall menu, this is a welcome innovation.

Most of all though, its the Breadstall sourdough crust that makes this pizza special. It’s slow-fermented using biga, a pre-ferment that gives the dough its airy pockets and light chew. Twice-baked too, which explains the crisp base and soft interior. It’s a really nicely built pizza.

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Would we go back to Breadstall Soho?

Definitely. Especially if we’re nearby, or in need of a lunch that feels both satisfying and not outrageously heavy. Next time, we’ll take more of the menu for a spin – the rocket pizza sounds very yummy indeed. What’s more, the menu changes often enough to keep things interesting.

Breadstall might not be a full sit down pizzeria experience with candlelight and the rest, but it’s excellent at what it does. Come for great pizza, that comes out fast and hot, and in whatever size you can handle. T

The Soho branch of Breadstall is a perfect city lunch spot, and we’d happily do the walk just for another bite of that beef ragu slice.

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Breadstall pizza Soho, London restaurant review
Address – 92 Berwick St, London W1F 0QB
Nearest Tube – Tottenham Court Road