Is Dumbo Shoreditch actually worth the hype

Dumbo Shoreditch has been on my burger hit list for months now. All summer there were photos of queues curling down Brick Lane, their viral smashed patties all over social media, their burgers declared the best in London.

So naturally, our expectations are high.

One weekday lunchtime I find myself near the very top of Brick Lane and decide this is the moment. I push open the door to Dumbo, half expecting a crowd.

Instead, I’m the only one inside for a little while, until a small group  wander in behind me.

Already, the tone feels different to the viral frenzy I’d imagined. Interesting.

Quick info on Dumbo Shoreditch

• Restaurant: Dumbo
• Location: Shoreditch, London
• Dumbo menu: Cheeseburger, plant burger, fries, nuggets
• Seating: covered outdoor high tables. Heat lamps outside but still cold in winter

Read the full Dumbo London review below to find out more.

Smaller outside, bigger inside

From the pavement, Dumbo Shoreditch looks almost pocket sized. Blink and you might miss it.

Step inside though and it stretches further back than you expect, with a long kitchen running down one side.

At the back there’s a covered outdoor area with high steel tables and stools. Even with the cover and heat lamps, in winter you’ll still feel the cold. That said, having any seating at all is a win.

It might not be somewhere you settle in for an hour long catch up in February, but it works for a quick stop.

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The concept at Dumbo Shoreditch

Dumbo started in Paris in 2019 with a simple idea to strip the burger back to the basics. Something quick that you eat with your hands, standing up or perched on a windowsill.

The London menu reflects that philosophy. There’s a cheeseburger and a plant based burger, along with fries and nuggets. That’s it – no endless variations, just a commitment to doing one thing well.

There’s something appealing about that kind of simplicity.

The cheeseburger

We order the classic cheeseburger which comes with two smashed patties, ketchup, pickles, and bun.

It arrives quickly, looking exactly how a smash burger should. The patties have that crisp lacy edge from the sear and the bun is soft and pillowy.

The first bite is good, but as I keep eating, I start trying to work out why it’s not completely winning me over.

The balance feels slightly off. Perhaps there is just a touch too much bun to meat. Perhaps it is the particular funkiness of the dry aged beef blend that Dumbo developed with HG Walter. There is a flavour note that lingers in a way I’m not sure I love.

It’s by no means a bad burger. In fact, it’s a very competent one. But when I compare it to Supernova, which remains my personal benchmark for smash burgers in London, Dumbo Shoreditch feels a fraction less satisfying.

I can’t quite pinpoint it, but the wow moment never lands.

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The fries

The fries are twice cooked and arrive crisp and golden with a side of ‘special sauce’.

They are very good, with proper crunch on the outside, soft and fluffy on the inside. The ratio is spot on, and you could happily demolish the whole cup without noticing.

The special sauce does a job, being creamy and slightly tangy, but it’s not doing anything groundbreaking. Still, as a side to the burger, its alright.

Hype vs reality

Maybe part of this is expectation management.

When something goes viral, like it has here, you anticipate fireworks. You expect to love it.

Dumbo Shoreditch delivers an alright smash burger, but it’s not my favourite in London.

Final thoughts on Dumbo Shoreditch

Although it’s been a fair restaurant experience, I know I wouldn’t come back to Dumbo Shoreditch for a smash burger.

The wow of it just never landed for me – which could be an entirely personal thing. I’ve got my favourite smash burger restaurants in London, and I guess it takes a lot to get into my top 3 list.

Still, there are lots of people who love the Dumbo burger, so if you’re around check it out for yourself.

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Dumbo London review
Address – 119 Bethnal Grn Rd, London E2 7DG
Nearest Tube – Liverpool Street