Here’s why The Plimsoll burger is worth the hype

The Plimsoll burger is the reason I head to Finsbury Park for lunch. It’s often called one of the better burgers in London, and I’ve meaning to try it for a while.

I spend the morning wandering around Islington, eventually hopping on the number 19 bus to Finsbury Park. The 19feels faintly foreign to me as a West Londoner, and I enjoy that small shift in geography that makes London feel different. By the time I arrive, I’m ready to take on the famous Plimsoll burger.

Quick information before you order

• Restaurant: The Plimsoll Pub
• Where: Finsbury Park, London
• Must order: Dexter cheeseburger
• Skip: Nothing outright, but note the pork-heavy menu
• Also excellent: Fried potatoes with aioli
• Prices: £14 burger, £7 potatoes (very sharable)
• Good to know: Small dining room, booking with 2-3 people improves table choice and comfort

Read our Plimsoll restaurant review to find out more.

The Plimsoll burger gets straight to the point

The burger at The Plimsoll pub arrives without drama, which is nice for something this hyped.

Inside is a Dexter beef patty that just about holds together, which means that eating it is easy. On top is cheese melted into the meat, with raw and cooked onions layered in, and a couple of chunky slices of gherkin.

The first bite is hugely satisfying. The beef patty tastes rich and savoury, properly beefy, with a bun that compresses cleanly around it. It’s the perfect foil for a beautifully cooked patty.

There are sections of real char on the patty, which results in chewy and dark pieces, adding smoky depth and texture. It tastes like high heat has been involved, whether from an open flame or cast iron pushed to its limit. That char contrasts beautifully with the sweetness of the cooked onions and the sharpness of the raw.

It’s a confident burger at The Plimsoll, thoroughly enjoyable from start to finish.

Excellent fried potatoes

Alongside the burger, we also order a plate of fried potatoes with aioli. I realise later that hey’re some of the most moreish potatoes I’ve ever had, as I type up this restaurant review, thinking of them longingly.

The skins are crackled but still delicate, offering resistance before giving way to hot, steaming interiors that are soft and fluffy. Each bite unfolds properly, with crackled sea salt first, then the snap of skin, then straight into yielding potato.

On the side is the aioli which is thick and glossy, doing its job well, though I find myself wishing for a sharper garlic punch. Something closer to toum would push this dish even further. Still, the potatoes don’t rely on it.

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At £7, it’s a generous portion and easily enough to share between two.

A look at the Plimsoll menu beyond the burger

The Plimsoll menu is compact but thoughtful, leaning into pub classics with a European sensibility. Snacks and starters include marinated olives, baguette and butter, chipolatas, Cantabrian anchovies with blood orange, and calamari with sweet chilli.

Mains expand into heartier territory. There are cod cheeks with braised peas and ham, pork belly with chickpeas and red pepper, lamb chop with cabbage and green sauce, tomato rice with winter truffle, linguine with red mullet and pine nut, and stone bass with mash and marsala.

One thing worth flagging is the prevalence of pork across the menu. Chipolatas, pork belly, ham folded into other dishes. It comes up often. For non-pork eaters, this narrows the field slightly, though there are still solid alternatives if you choose carefully.

Desserts are classic and reassuring, with chocolate tart with cream, apple cake with custard, and Comté with grapes.

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Dining solo at the Plimsoll pub

The dining room itself is small, probably around a dozen tables, some undeniably better than others. The banquette seating and window spots are the most inviting, while solo walk-ins are more likely to land in the centre of the room on stools.

That said, the atmosphere is welcoming and relaxed, and dining alone doesn’t draw attention. It’s a comfortable place for lunch, especially if you book ahead with a group to secure a better table.

As a pub, The Plimsoll strikes a good balance. It’s casual enough to walk into, serious enough about food to reward the effort, but not wanky.

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Final thoughts on The Plimsoll burger

This Plimsoll pub review lands firmly on the positive side.

The Plimsoll burger is excellent, properly cooked, well balanced, and confident in its simplicity. The potatoes are strong supporting players, and the menu overall reflects a kitchen that prioritises flavour and execution over gimmicks.

Prices are fair for the quality, especially the £14 cheeseburger, which easily holds its own among London’s better pub burgers.

If you’re scanning The Plimsoll restaurant listings and wondering whether it’s worth a visit, the answer is yes.

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Address – 52 St Thomas’s Rd, Finsbury Park, London N4 2QQ
Nearest Tube – Finsbury Park