Go to Speedboat Bar for Bangkok energy in the heart of Soho

Lunch at Speedboat Bar Soho happens because I suddenly realise I haven’t eaten Thai food in years.

It’s not deliberate. It’s just one of those gaps that creeps up on you. Meanwhile, London has been busy building a serious reputation for Thai cooking, and Speedboat Bar keeps coming up in conversation.

So when I find myself in Soho with time to spare, I walk in wondering what I’ve been missing.

As it turns out, flavour-wise, quite a lot.

Value-wise? Slightly more complicated.

Quick info on Speedboat Bar in Soho

• Restaurant: Speedboat Bar
• Location: Soho, London
• Known for: Thai street food inspired cooking and bold, punchy flavours
• Must order: wide noodles with beef, cha yen
• Watch out: portions are on the smaller side, not corresponding with price

Read our full Speedboat Bar review to find out more.

The energy at Speedboat Bar Soho

Speedboat Bar Soho doesn’t ease you in gently. The exterior is eye-catchingly bright and high contrast with it’s teal and red detailing.

Inside, stainless steel tables catch the light. The walls are candy coloured. Speedboat Bar feels fast and vivid, and there’s a sense of intention behind it all.

Luke Farrell has described Speedboat Bar as his tribute to the neon-gilded cafes of Bangkok’s Chinatown, and that energy is everywhere. It feels like lunch could roll straight into late afternoon drinks without much encouragement.

The atmosphere is bold, and the food follows suit.

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Sweetcorn fritters

Still the star of the Speedboat Bar menu

We start with the sweetcorn fritters, and they’re fantastic.

Deeply crisp on the outside, soft and studded with sweetcorn inside. The flavour hits salty first, then gently spicy, then deeply savoury. It’s joyful and instantly puts a smile on my face.

The spicy tomato dip brings extra heat, so approach wisely.

If you’re browsing the Speedboat Bar menu wondering what to order first, this is it.

Wide rice noodles with beef

Delicious but smaller than expected

Next come the wide rice noodles, one of the dishes most associated with Speedboat Bar Soho.

The noodles are thick and coated in deep soy and beef juices. The beef is thinly sliced, tender, and curled from the heat. There’s egg running through it, adding softness and texture, while crunchy greens break up the richness.

Flavour-wise, it’s excellent. The noodles are deeply savoury, verging on addictive.

But here’s where I pause.

The portion is noticeably smaller than I expected for the price. It works if you’re sharing multiple dishes, but on its own it feels modest.

In fact, I order an extra portion of the noodles to take home to my husband. When he opens the box later, he genuinely asks if I’ve brought him leftovers from my plate.

It doesn’t take away from the flavour, but in this Speedboat Bar review, it’s worth mentioning. The value shifts down when you factor in the portion-to-price ratio.

Whole sea bream with makrut lime

Bright, beautiful, but another small portion

The whole sea bream arrives looking delicious.

Makrut lime cuts through sharply and there’s a subtle peanut warmth underneath. The fish itself is cooked beautifully, flaky and moist, and the flavour is bright and invigorating.

But again, the portion size raises an eyebrow.

It’s a small fish, and there isn’t a huge amount of edible flesh on it. Once you navigate bones and head, what’s left is delicious but limited.

For the price point, you might expect something a little more generous.

That said, the flavour execution is strong. It’s just the portion-to-cost balance that feels slightly off, again.

Cha Yen

Order this without hesitation at Speedboat Bar

The Cha Yen, which is iced Thai tea with condensed milk and milk foam, is an absolute win.

It’s sweet, creamy, and slightly tannic beneath it all. The drink cuts through spice beautifully and pairs well with everything.

This is one of the easiest recommendations from the Speedboat Bar menu.

Mango pudding with red pomelo

Interesting but not essential

The mango pudding is thick and dense, almost meaty in texture. Not overly sweet, which is typical for a south east asian dessert. The pomelo adds brightness, though again it’s subtle.

It’s been interesting to try, but I wouldn’t return to Speedboat Bar Soho specifically for dessert.

The savoury side is where the kitchen really shines.

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So is Speedboat Bar Soho worth it?

Yes, but with context.

Speedboat Bar delivers bold, layered, and exciting Thai flavours. The sweetcorn fritters are addictive, the noodles are deeply satisfying and the sea bream is bright and well balanced.

However, the portion sizes are smaller than expected for the price, particularly the noodles and the whole fish. That does shift the value perception.

If you go in knowing that, and order accordingly, you’ll have a great time.

For flavour and atmosphere, Speedboat Bar Soho wins us over. Just don’t assume you’ll be rolling out the door stuffed.

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Speedboat Bar Soho review
Address – 30 Rupert St, London W1D 6DL
Nearest Tube – Piccadilly Circus